The Parish Church of Kilmuir

On looking back on the history of our church in Kilmuir and Kilmaluag we can see an historical progression similar to that of many other Highland and island parishes.

Pagan Past

In the distant past the area was very much in the grip of paganism with people worshipping several Gods and placing their trust in superstitions, rites, customs and magical powers. Although many pagan sites were recognizable in, olden days there are but few which can be spotted today. One such site is Peighin-na-Cille at Bornasketaig where a Druid circle once stood its standing stones having been removed some three centuries ago. Also in Bornasketaig one finds the site known as Tobhtaichean Dubha, reputed to have been associated with Pagan rites and sacrifices.

The Arrival of Missionaries from Ireland

With the arrival on Skye of Irish missionaries with their gospel message in the sixth century A. D. Kilmuir it appears, was one of the first two parishes to welcome St Columba and St Moluag. Paganism gradually gave way to Popery as Columba and his Monks established a chapel on the island on what became known as St Columba's Loch. The parish name Kilmuir goes back to those early times.

According to Rev Donald Macqueen there were several other monastic settlements in the area - Kilvaxter being one and Kilbride -near the landing place of Prince Charlie and Flora MacDonald - being another. At Kilbride there are still the ruins of a chapel dedicated to St Bride and at Linacro there is Cnoc-na-paidir, - the hill of prayer. Martin Martin in his book make's mention of a chapel dedicated to St Columba 'On the island of Trodday and in living memory the ruin's, 'of a chapel were to be seen on Fladaidh Chuain .Local folk lore had it that the last monk to live on this lonely island was named O'Gorgon and that in his last years some Kilmuir fishermen constrained him to leave the island and eventually he was brought to Feaull where he ended his days in a solitary manner.

Of greatest significance, Of course is the ruined chapel on the island in St Columba's Lake, below Monkstadt. This important ruin is described by a leading 19th century archaeologist as being one of the finest examples of original Celtic Monastic settlements to be found in the British Isles. On this subject, Thomas Pennant who visited Skye in 1772 wrote "Beneath the house of Monkstadt was the lake of St Columba once noted for its monastery of great antiquity. The cells and several rooms are still distinguishable. The chapel is of later date and built with mortar as are all other chapels, on Skye. These chapels were served by the Monks" Within the burial ground at Kilmaluag there are the remains of a chapel some 40 feet long and dedicated to St Moluag, who it appears was very successful in spreading the gospel in this part and later in Raasay. The new faith spread widely during the time of Irish missionary activity and for almost three centuries peace arid harmony was enjoyed by the islanders.

The Viking Era

However the dreadful year's bf destruction wrought by the invading Norsemen during the 8th century caused much grief and chaos in the parish and much of the peace and goodwill which earlier pertained was, once again beshrewed.

Although the Norsemen or Vikings brought many useful skills into the island their strong opposition to the principles of Christianity caused much anguish and dismay. They plundered and pillaged many of the monasteries and burned or otherwise destroyed many valuable manuscripts which could never be replaced. For the following hundreds of years the Christianity of the Roman church and the Paganism of the Norsemen became so entangled as to be undistinguishable one from another. After the end of the Viking era in the 13th century, more settled times were enjoyed but alas the Christian teachings of earlier times were to a large extent being forgotten and a period of unethical life-style followed. Not until the opening years of the 16th century do we find any evidence of activity by the Roman church again in the parish.

The Reformation Era

In 1507 a Martin Martin of the scholarly north Skye family ministered in Kilmaluag and continued his work there until 1536. It is interesting to note that during his first year there the king granted him a letter of protection against anyone who should harm him or lay hands on his belongings. Such was the state of civilization in the area at the time. Several notable preachers occupied the Kilmaluag pulpit after the Reformation in 1560.

0ne incumbent whose work has been remembered was John MacLean the respected preacher and healer whose family came to Trotternish as physicians to the chief of Clan Donald at Duntulm and who occupied the township' of Shuilista rent-free as part of their salary.

Donald Gorm Mor was chief at Duntulm at the time of the Reformation and was one of the first Highland chiefs to accept the Protestant faith. He brought pressure on his clansmen to follow his lead and to suppress any Jesuit activity that persisted within his lands. He became so ardent in his support or the Reformed faith that he threatened to punish any adversaries of the new faith.

After the death of Donald Gorm it is said that Kilmuir experienced a period of inactivity probably caused by, the appearance of Episcopalian ministers who tried hard to bring their influence to bear on converted parishes which were as yet not strong enough to handle such opposition. Rev Donald Nicolson who was minister in Kilmuir from 1663 until 1696 was a strong Episcopalian and rather than conform to Presbyterianism he eventually gave up his' charge much to, the relief of parishioners. In those days a minister was not chosen by the people but by the landlord and as so often was the case the chosen minister did precisely as he was, instructed to do by his patron.

Early Ministries

Early ministers were Rev Kenneth MacQueen followed by his son Rev Donald, The latter was a very talented and eloquent man who in the year 1773 met and entertained Boswell and Johnson during their visit to the island. In their journal they made glowing reference to Macqueen's intellect and to his knowledge of the history of the Highlands and islands. Mr. MacQueen ministered in Kilmuir for a period of 45 years.

Around 1805 a powerful evangelist appeared on the scene in the person of Donald Munro from Achdaleathan near Portree. Munro visited village after village and home after home preaching the gospel with sincerity and conviction. By this time the old church of Kilmuir was in an advanced state of decay and during settled weather young and old from throughout the parish gathered in the open to worship God. Slochd-an~t-searmoin in Score was a favorite meeting place and as was customary in many Highland parishes, a portable pulpit, of wood was provided for the preacher.

By 1910 a new church capable of seating 700 worshippers was erected at Druim Buidhe in Kilmuir the cost of erection being borne entirely by the second Lord MacDonald. The clan chief chose the site at Bornasketaig in an effort to minimise costs of transporting materials to the site. Boats were able to land their cargo at nearby Camusmore.

A slated manse, the first of its kind to be built on Skye was erected at Osmigarry in 1778 again paid for by Lord MacDonald. The new church at Druim Buidhe attracted a very large congregation as the established church drew young and old from all corners of the parish. The first minister to preach in the new church was Rev Donald Ross whose ministry lasted from 1809 till 1822. He was followed by the Rev Robert MacGregor who was parish minister at the time of the Disruption in 1843 and whose stipend was 150 Pounds Sterling.

The Disruption

The Disruption caused a great deal of strife and discord within the parish and many families turned their backs on the church in which they had worshipped for so long. At Kilmaluag the remaining congregation had by now begun to attend worship in Tigh- na-Pairce which had earlier been the parish school and later the local post office.

In 1844 Rev Robert MacGregor's place as parish minister was taken over by his son Rev Alexander Macgregor who himself was an educated and cultured gentleman. He was the writer of the very full and graphic account of the parish for the Statistical Account of 1841. The young minister left the area in 1851 on account of the decline in church attendance.

The vacancy which followed was filled by Rev John MacIver who remained as minister of the charge until his death in 1869. Mr MacIver was followed by a Mr MacKenzie who ministered in Kilmuir until 1876.

In 1878 Rev James Grant, a native of Strathspey became minister and having studied medicine before entering the ministry, he was often asked for advice in cases of illness of animals as well as humans. The story is told of an old widow in Kilmuir who had an ailing cow and sent for the minister to, - see if he could prescribe a cure. The minister duly arrived and asked the widow to boil certain herbs and to administer the concoction to the cow each day for a week. As he was leaving, the old lady turned to the minister and in a rather pessimistic tone asked if he really thought her cow would live. To her surprise this is how her question was answered "Ma bhios I beo bitheadh 's mar a bi basaichidh I' (If she lives she lives and if not she'll die).

The story goes on to tell that some weeks later Mr Grant was laid up suffering from a very painful boil on his neck. The old lady whose cow he had treated earlier was passing the manse and called in to ask for the minister. She was ushered up to his room and as she was about to leave she shook the minister's hand and repeated what he had said about her cow "Ma bhios tu beo bitheadh 's mar a bi basaicheadh tu' The statement amused the patient so much that his hearty fit of laughter caused his boil to burst thus giving him great relief. After Mr Grant the parish minister was Rev Mr. MacLean, a native of Mull. He was succeeded by a Mr. Stewart.

The United Free Church and Union

The United Free church in Kilmuir was at the time situated at Balgown where the present Church of Scotland stands and from 1888 it had as its minister the Rev D.A.MacDonald, a native of Iona.

In the spring of 1920 a very severe gale struck the islands causing serious damage to property over a wide area. The U.F church at Balgown was razed to the ground much to the dismay of all who saw what had happened. By 1924 however, a stately new church was completed on the same site.

Five years later in 1929 the United Free church was united with the Church of Scotland. As soon as this took place the congregation of the Church of Scotland at Druim Buidhe moved into the new church at Balgown thus rendering the old church surplus to requirement. As the U.F congregation was now part of the Established church Rev D.A. MacDonald was invited to become the parish minister, a step to which he was favourably disposed. His stipend was 300 per annum. In the same year the University of Glasgow conferred on him the degree of Doctor of Divinity.

To the Present Day

On the retiral of Dr MacDonald in 1931 the charge was filled in 1932 by Rev Murdo Macleod a native of Balallan in Lewis. Mr Macleod remained in the parish until 1947 when he accepted a call from the Church of Scotland in Tarbert, Harris.

The vacancy created by Mr Macleod's translation to Harris was filled in 1948 by Rev Angus MacKay a native of Bragar in Lewis. Mr MacKay occupied the charge for the notable period of 30 year. Following the retirement of Mr MacKay, another Lewisman of the same name -Rev D.A Mackay was inducted in Kilmuir but owing to ill health he remained in the parish for a period of only two years before moving on to the parish of Bracadale.

In 1981 the parish of Kilmuir was united with the neighboring parish of Stenscholl and the following year Rev Donald Beaton was inducted to the newly united charge. Mr Beaton left Kilmuir and Stenscholl for Kintail and Glenelg in 1988. In 1990 the vacancy was filled by Rev A.R. MacCulloch who remained in the parish for five years. In 1996 Rev Norman Drummond was called to the parish and he remained as minister until the end of 1998. This takes us up to our present minister Rev Ivor MacDonald whose induction took place on 14th January 2000.